WATERING
All trees need water to stay alive. At the time of planting, watering aids in settling the soil, improving soil-root contact and assuring adequate initial moisture. During the first 2-3 years after planting, watering aids in providing adequate soil moisture while root systems are being established.
The amount and frequency of watering will depend on the amount of rainfall, the moisture-holding capacity of the soil and the type of tree. A simple tried-but-true test as to whether watering is needed, squeeze a handful of soil in the area within 2 feet of the root system of the tree. If the soil sample retains its shape when the hand is opened, but is not sticky, the moisture content is good.
Be sure to watch your area's specific rainfall by using a rain gauge or weather websites. Trees which are receiving an inch of rain twice a week should not need additional watering. Purchasing a soil moisture meter or hydrometer (24" depth) is an excellent investment and will give you an immediate moisture reading for your trees. These average in price at $95 and can be used to gauge moisture for all your trees and shrubs or garden soil measurements.
Trees use more water as they grow and as the seasons change. The need for water slowly declines in the Fall. During dry periods (especially during May through September), keep a close eye on your trees to determine when they need water. Signs of water stress, either too much or too little water, include: wilting, a change in leaf color from shiny to dull, yellowing, or exhibiting premature leaf fall or premature Fall coloration.
Watering should not be done when the soil is frozen. Generally, deciduous trees should continue to be watered until they are bare in the Fall. All recently transplanted trees should go into winter with ample moisture in the soil. Evergreens need water all year round, so if Winter weather conditions are dry, meaning there is a lack of rain or snowmelt, and soil temperature conditions are not frozen you should
water your evergreens, but they would need minimal watering in the Winter, perhaps once every 10 days if the above conditions prevail.
To water your tree, lay the hose near the trunk of your tree and let the water run SLOWLY, at the rate it takes to fill a 16oz. glass of water in 30 seconds. Move the hose to the other side of the trunk in 3 - 4 hours, but keep water flowing on the tree's root ball for 6 - 8 hours. Over-watering can cause the roots to drown from lack of adequate soil aeration, so water according to above guidelines. When necessary, water every 3 - 4 days in regular soil. Trees in sandy soil and in elevated locations may need additional watering. Trees in clay soil may need less watering.
Dripline or irrigation hoses on timers are also an excellent, and less time-consuming way, to water large trees. A dripline hose should be wrapped in concentric circles around a tree's rootball to provide adequate water delivery to the entire rootball. Do not lay a dripline hose around only the edge of the root system, watering the outermost roots is not adequate enough to keep the tree healthy and alive!
Greenwoods is frequently asked about tree Gator Bags or tree watering rings which are available at most garden centers or box stores. These should be used if hose watering is not viable in the locations where B&B or large trees have been planted. These bags or rings may need to be used more frequently, as they do not provide as much water to the tree roots as hose delivery.
If you are going to be away after your tree(s) have been planted, please make arrangements to have your B&B or large tree(s) watered while you are away, as even one dry week can cause newly planted tree(s) to decline rapidly. Dripline hoses on timers are an excellent choice to keep trees watered during a vacation or travel period.
MULCHING
Mulching with hardwood or pine bark mulch, wood chips or leaf mold 3-4 inches deep is beneficial in conserving soil moisture, regulating soil temperature and encouraging root development. Mulching will reduce weed development and eliminate mowing near the trunk. Keep mulch on your newly transplanted tree for 2 - 3 years post-transplant. After that time, you can remove the mulch if desired. Mulch also provides a covering for new root growth to establish itself and not compete with grass roots.
WEED KILLERS / WEED TRIMMERS
Weed killers should not be used around trees. The tree trunk should never be bumped or scraped with a lawnmower or weed trimmer.
FERTILIZERS
Lawn fertilizers that contain weed killers should not be used in the vicinity of trees. A top dressing of regular lawn fertilizer spread over the root area is beneficial when applied during March / April or September / October of the second year of planting. One cup (8 oz) of granular fertilizer should cover a 6x6 foot area. Tree fertilizer "sticks" are also available at most Garden Centers and are also recommended for DIY'ers. Do not use both lawn fertilizer and fertilizer sticks in conjunction, use only one or the other.
Do not fertilize till the second year of planting as tree roots are vulnerable to being burned by the nitrogen in the fertilizer in the first year after transplant. It is also recommended that you engage the services of an Arborist to check your trees annually and provide professional fertilization or other tree care services if you feel more confident using an arbor care company in protecting your investment.
ORGANIC TREATMENTS
On new tree transplantations, Greenwoods utilizes organic, biostimulus preparations to promote root growth and prevent transplant shock. We introduce a root hormone with a vitamin complex boosted by sugar in a slurry mixed with granular mycorrhyzomes which act as a powerful root promoter and anti-transplant shock treatment. You may notice a gelatin type subtance at the top of the root ball from this treatment. It is not harmful to the tree. We may also use a product made from horticultural grade molasses, which introduces both iron and sugar into the root system and sea kelp, which forms a gelatinous substance when water is introduced to keep water and nutrients in the roots.
IF YOUR TREE DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE THRIVING
- Be sure you are not over- or under-watering or if Mother Nature is over-watering with excessive rainfall, lightly scrape away the mulch to let the soil around the tree roots transpire moisture and breathe for several days or longer, then re-apply the mulch. A hydrometer (soil moisture meter) is an excellent investment to monitor your tree's water needs.
- Do not over-mulch. The amount of mulch Greenwoods applied is the proper amount of mulch to apply to a transplanted tree. You can apply additional mulch just before Winter as a 'bed' to insulate tree roots, but you must remove this extra mulch in the early Spring
- You can give your tree an 'IV solution' of table sugar or brown sugar in the same way that people who are ill may be given a glucose IV. Mix 1 cup of either type of sugar into a gallon of water and drench the tree's roots, then water the sugar into the roots with a regular watering
- Check soil pH using a pH meter (inexpensive purchase from garden center or box store) and be sure your soil pH range is within the range for the type of tree you have.
- Do not over-fertilize your tree. Do not fertilize in the Summer! If you feel you have over fertilized, cancel out some of the action of the nitrogen in the fertilizer by drenching the tree with a gallon of water mixed with 1 cup of table sugar, then water in the table sugar with a regular watering or let the rain carry the sugar into the root system if rain is anticipated in the next 24 hours
- If your tree is experiencing stress in Summer heat, do not spray the tree's leaves during the day, you will only scorch the leaves (caused by water refraction on the leaf in sunlight). Instead, cool down the sap temperatures of the tree by using a hose and spray the trunk only in full 360 degree rotation from waist-high level down to the collar of the tree (where the tree trunk meets the ground) for approximately 1 hour to cool down the internal sap temperature and give the tree heat relief.
AFTERCARE
Greenwoods will inspect your newly installed large tree(s) 30 - 180 days after installation to review the post-transplant viability and to make adjustments to large tree aftercare if needed.
Greenwoods offers an Aftercare Package at no charge to all customers who purchase big trees from Greenwoods. The Aftercare Package includes an inspection of your newly installed big trees within the inspection period noted above, plus additional application of the root hormone with vitamin complex in a slurry mixed with root promoter mycorrhyzomes. Greenwoods staff will also prune any twigs or branchlets on these big trees which need attention.
This package may be purchased for an upcharge for large caliper trees transplanted by Greenwoods, meaning large caliper trees which Greenwoods transplants for you, but does not sell to you.
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