WATERING

The amount and frequency of watering will depend on the amount of rainfall, the moisture-holding capacity of the soil and the type of tree. To test whether watering is needed, squeeze a handful of soil. If the soil sample retains its shape when the hand is opened, but is not sticky, the moisture content is good. Trees use more water as they grow and as the season changes from spring to summer. The need for water slowly declines through the summer into fall. During dry periods (especially during May through September), keep a close eye on your trees to determine when they need water. Signs of water stress include wilting, a change in leaf color (from shiny to dull, or from dark green to gray-green) and premature leaf fall. Watering should not be done when then the soil is frozen. Generally shade trees should continue to be watered until they are bare in the fall. Evergreens need water at all times of the year, although they need less in the fall and winter than in the spring and summer. Water evergreens thoroughly in the fall so that the soil is as wet as possible when it freezes solid. All recently transplanted trees (shade and evergreen) should go into winter with ample moisture in the soil. The most critical months for watering all trees are May through September.

Lay the hose near the trunk of the tree and let the water run SLOWLY, at the rate it takes to fill a 16oz. glass of water in 30 seconds. Keep the hose on a 90” root ball for 4 - 6 hours. Over-watering can cause the roots to drown from lack of adequate soil aeration, so water according to above guidelines. When necessary, water every 7 days in heavy soils such as clay or every 3 - 4 days in sandy soil. Dripline hoses on timers are also an excellent, and less time-consuming way, to water large trees.

Tree Gator Bags or Tree watering rings are available at most Garden Centers. These should be used if hose watering is not viable in the locations where the trees have been planted. These may need to be used more frequently, as they do not provide as much water to the tree roots as hose delivery.

Be sure to watch your area's specific rainfall by using a rain gauge or weather websites. Trees which are receiving an inch of rain twice a week should not need additional watering. Purchasing a soil moisture meter or hydrometer is an excellent investment and will give you an immediate moisture reading for your large tree. These average in price at $75 and can be used to gauge moisture for all your trees and shrubs or garden soil measurements.

If you are going to be away after your tree(s) have been planted, please make arrangements to have the tree(s) watered while you are away, as even one dry week can cause newly planted tree(s) to decline rapidly. Dripline hoses on timers are an excellent choice to keep trees watered during a vacation or travel period.

MULCHING, FERTILIZERS, STAKING, TRENCHING, SOILWORK, ORGANIC TREATMENTS, BIOPLEX:

Mulching with hardwood or pine bark mulch, wood chips or leaf mold 3-4 inches deep is beneficial in conserving soil moisture, regulating soil temperature and encouraging root development. Mulching will reduce weed development and eliminate mowing near the trunk. Weed killers should not be used around trees. The tree trunk should never be bumped or scraped with a lawnmower or weed trimmer.

FERTILIZERS

Lawn fertilizers that contain weed killers should not be used in the vicinity of trees. A top dressing of regular lawn fertilizer spread over the root area is beneficial when applied during March / April or September / October of the second year of planting. One cup of fertilizer should cover a 3x3 foot area. Tree fertilizer "sticks" are also available at most Garden Centers and are recommended. Do not use both lawn fertilizer and fertilizer sticks in conjunction, use only one or the other. Do not fertilize till the second year of planting as tree roots are vulnerable to being burned by the nitrogen in the fertilizer in the first year after transplant.

STAKING

Whenever wires appear to be loose, adjust by tightening the turnbuckle. Leave tree staking intact for 2-3 years. Then carefully remove the wires and stakes. If the stakes are too firm to pull out of the ground, they can be driven into the ground using a mallet. They are fabricated from iron and the iron would be of benefit to the soil surround of a tree.

TRENCHING

If a tree is planted in clay soil, it is a good idea to dig a trench 12-18 inches deep extending one foot from the perimeter of the soil on the soil ball, within two feet of the trunk and fill with good topsoil.

SOILWORK

It is beneficial to backfill the crevice around the soil ball with loose soil, this is called airgapping. This soilwork allows tree roots to pass through soil into the surrounding area as they grow, instead of hitting an air pocket. Tree roots which hit air, may dry up and die. Greenwoods performs soilwork on all new tree sales. Clients may wish to elect to have this service performed, for an upcharge, on transplanted trees.

ORGANIC TREATMENTS

On new tree installations, Greenwoods utilizes organic preparations to promote root growth and prevent transplant shock. These products are made from molasses, which introduces both iron and sugar into the root system and sea kelp, which forms a gelatinous substance when water is introduced to keep water and nutrients in the root ball. You may notice some of this gelatin type susbtance at the top of the root ball. It is not harmful. Again, clients may wish to elect to have this service performed, for an upcharge, on transplanted trees.

Bioplex or Biopac is available for summer transplant success. There is an upcharge for bioplex on transplanted trees.

In closing, be sure to consult with an arbor care specialist in your area if you notice any negative issues with your trees, or for annual tree check-ups! With continued care, your trees will provide a lifetime of enjoyment for all. Thank you for choosing Greenwoods Large Trees, Inc.